San Juan del Sur is a small fishing and beach town located just a mere 104 kilometers from the Costa Rican border, which if you are from the states reading this, is about 65 miles. After flying into the San Jose Airport in Costa Rica last week, I decided to bus straight to San Juan del Sur since I am on a tight time span before my teacher training in Pochomil. Visiting this area was particularly important to me because the school, Barrio Planta Project that I had previously done fundraising for is based here. As well, I would be seeing a dentist recommended to me by a friend.
San Juan is a relatively small town, but in comparison to neighboring beaches, is the most active area around for tourist and locals alike. Most tourist who are coming to check out some of Nicaragua's beautiful Southern Coast line for surfing, usually use SJDS as a base, then take day trips to the more common, but more deserted surf spots. Buses, shuttles and taxi's to take you to these location can be found near the Centro Market, or most likely in your hostel.
To give those who plan on coming to SJDS an idea of how much you will spend a day, here is a short itinerary. I personally strive to be an excellent budget traveler, so most of the time I will search around to get the best deals on hostels and eat in smaller, family owned restaurants instead of going to the nice, touristy restaurants- although I do splurge when I need WIFI ; )
HOSTEl: ranges from $5-$12 for dormitories,
BREAKFAST: in the small, family restaurants a typical Nicaraguan breakfast will cost you about $2. Fruits and juice are sold everywhere on the streets for around $1 or less. Other restaurants may run about $3- $5.
SNACKS: $1 or less for crackers, chips, etc.
LUNCH/ DINNER: about the same as breakfast! I found an awesome wrap place that cost $2. A bigger meal will be about $5 in a nice restaurant.
WATER: small $.50- $1, large $1-$2
BEER: $.75 in a store, at a bar about $1 - $1.50 for Tona's (Nica's beer)
LIQUOR: a small bottle of rum cost about $2, YES, $2, and you can pretty much bring it with you inside anywhere you you. At a bar, a drink is about $1 or so
BUS FARE: going to Rivas, where you can catch buses to other parts of the country $1
TAXI: vary from $.75- $4
I thought SJDS was a beautiful town, and one that I would definitely consider staying in long term to work with the school. There is plenty to keep you busy, the beach itself being one. Daily activities are available such as fishing and boating group outings, yoga classes, spanish classes, surfing lessons and trips to Masaya- a huge market located a few hours North-east. Right outside the centro of the house is speckled with various Barrios, and there are animals- everywhere! I might have to make a post later just about the many wild animals of Nicaragua.
The only down part of SJDS during my time, was the amount of tourist that flood the area- and I came during the slow season. It would be almost rare to over hear a spanish conversations over the house music at the local bar/clubs. There is also a "Sunday Funday" a few of the party hostels have put together in the past year or so, that is supposed to be the "largest party in Central America", I unfortunately did not partake in this shit show, I mean pool party. Has Miami made me sour about drunken tourist gathering together? What kind of backpacker am I? There were a few good spots out there though, and the occasional beach, or sidewalk drum circle.
Getting back on topic, SJDS is somewhat also known for their huge Jesus statue, that towers the bay in protection, known "Christ of the Mercy". It is actually the largest Christ statue in all of Central America. One day during my stay, I walked almost to the top of the 134m climb, through a beautiful neighborhood on the hillside with million dollar houses sprinkling the sides. However, I fell a little short when I realized you had to pay to go all the way- it was only $2 or so, but I was outside the gate and it was starting to rain.
I could have you reading this, filling your mind with images of me hiking, boating and learning to surf everyday... however anyone who knows me would know I am lying. I did, have the best time walking around the town, talking to the locals, who are surprisingly very pleasant and helpful to tourist, perhaps they are yet jaded like what happens in many other gringo infested areas. Nicaragua in general so far, has proven to be one of the most relaxing places I have ever been to. They are very hard workers here, but the family is very close to home at the same time- and they definitely know how to test out a hammock for a few hours a day. Despite the fire- like sun setting over the Bay early, around 6:30, the clock seems to run a step slower here, which is never a bad thing.
I will have more post coming soon with my newly found treasures of San Juan del Sur !
xx SLW
